🌱 Starting Strong: The Certified Arborist’s 5-Step Guide to Planting a New Tree in the Columbia Shuswap/BC Interior
You’ve made a fantastic decision to add a new tree to your property—perhaps one of the resilient native species we recently recommended! Now comes the most important step: proper planting.
Mistakes made during planting—even small ones—can take years to appear but can ultimately doom a tree to decline, disease, and an early death.
At Trees and Co. Arborist Services, we follow these five essential steps to ensure your new tree starts strong and thrives in the unique climate of the Columbia Shuswap/BC Interior.
Step 1: Right Tree, Right Place (The Golden Rule)
Before you dig, confirm the location. A tree's eventual mature size is the most overlooked factor in planting.
Check the Utilities: Always contact your utility provider (e.g., FortisBC/BC Hydro) before planting. Ensure the mature height and canopy width of your tree will not interfere with overhead power lines or underground utilities (sewer, gas, cable) when fully grown.
The 3-Meter Rule: Avoid planting any large tree within 3 meters (10 feet) of a structure, foundation, or paved surface. Roots grow wider than the canopy, and you want to prevent future conflicts.
Consider the Microclimate: Does the spot get intense afternoon sun? Is it in a wind tunnel? Choosing the right spot for sun and moisture requirements is the key to low-maintenance success.
Step 2: Dig Wide, Not Deep (The Ideal Hole)
The size and shape of the planting hole determine how well the roots establish themselves in the years to come.
Dig Wide: The hole should be two to three times wider than the diameter of the root ball. This loose, excavated soil provides a soft highway for new roots to grow laterally.
Dig Shallow: The hole should be no deeper than the height of the root ball. When the tree is placed in the hole, the top of the root ball must be level with, or slightly above, the surrounding grade. This prevents the tree from sinking, which is a leading cause of root rot.
Rough up the Edges: If you have heavy clay soil (common in the Interior), scrape the sides of the hole with a shovel to prevent a smooth, compacted surface that new roots can't penetrate (a condition called "pot-walling").
Step 3: Find the Root Flare and Cut Girdling Roots
This step is where professional knowledge is most critical—and where many DIY planters make a fatal error.
Locate the Root Flare: This is the point where the trunk widens as it meets the root system. This flare must be visible once the tree is in the ground. If you can’t see the flare on the nursery root ball, remove excess soil from the top until you do.
Inspect and Prune Roots: Before placing the tree in the hole, inspect the sides and bottom of the root ball. If the roots are circling tightly around the ball (a common nursery issue), gently cut them with clean shears or scissors. Circling (Girdling) Roots will eventually strangle the trunk or main roots as the tree grows, leading to a slow decline and death.
Step 4: Backfill and Water Deeply
Once the tree is positioned correctly, it’s time to secure it and introduce it to its new home.
Backfill with Native Soil: Use the soil you removed from the hole. You don't need to add excess compost or amendments, as this can discourage roots from growing out into the native soil.
Water In: Fill the hole halfway with soil, then water thoroughly. This settles the soil and eliminates air pockets. Finish filling the hole and water again.
Do NOT Compact: Never stomp or heavily compact the soil with your feet. Settling the soil via water is the only way to maintain the necessary air pockets for root health.
Step 5: Post-Planting Care: Mulch and Skip the Stakes
The first year is all about establishing the roots. Your maintenance choices during this period determine the tree's health for decades.
Mulch Correctly: Apply a 2–4 inch layer of organic mulch (like wood chips) around the tree, but remember the "Mulch Donut" rule from our previous post: keep it 2–3 inches away from the trunk.
Avoid Staking (Usually): Most new trees do not need staking. A little sway in the wind actually encourages the trunk to thicken and grow stronger anchor roots. Only stake if the tree is in an extremely high-wind area or is unstable, and always remove the stakes and ties after one year.
Water Deeply and Infrequently: This is vital for the dry BC Interior summers. Water deeply at the edge of the root ball to encourage roots to grow outward and downward. Avoid shallow, daily watering, which encourages weak surface roots.
Planting is the Foundation of Tree Health.
A correctly planted tree is a low-maintenance tree. If you're unsure about site preparation, root flare identification, or dealing with problem roots, trust the experts.
Contact Trees and Co. Arborist Services for a professional planting or site consultation to give your newest landscape investment the strongest possible start.